Allergen

Dandruff Shampoo

There are many ingredients in typical dandruff shampoos that could be causing your scalp issues … even the “dandruff” itself. Why? A dry, flaking, itching scalp can be many things, such as seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, or an overgrowth of the Malassezia fungus (normally a harmless part of our skin’s microbiome) due to certain medications or frequent disinfection. It could also be a reaction of the scalp to irritants and allergens in your shampoo, conditioner, gels and styling products, hair dye, or headwear such as helmets, wraps, or scarves.

Some of the top skin allergens that regularly appear in dandruff shampoos include (listed alphabetically):

• Acrylates copolymer
• Amido Amines like cocamide MEA, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocodiethanolamide
• Benzyl alcohol
• Cetrimonium chloride
• Dyes, blue dye
• Fragrance, perfume
• Imidazolidinyl urea
• Limonene, linalool
• Methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI)
• Phenoxyethanol
• Propylene glycol
• Quaterniums (they’re related to formaldehyde) like polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22

Are the medications and other actives also allergens?

While the typical medications found in dandruff shampoo (coal tar, sulfur, selenium sulfide, pyrithione zinc, climbozole, ketoconazole) can be irritating, they don’t tend to be common causes of allergic contact dermatitis.

Because they tend to be antimicrobials, however, it’s best to use such products with your dermatologist’s guidance to avoid further irritating an already-irritated scalp and to avoid causing a microbial imbalance that could lead to barrier issues or other problems.

A dermatologist is also key to make sure you’re using the right active ingredient for what you have (which might not be “dandruff!)

What about natural anti-dandruff shampoos or making my own?

They could have the ingredients listed above and/or these ingredients, which tend to be popular in natural, organic, “clean,” “vegan,” or DIY options. Some, like tea tree oil, have been shown to be helpful but they are published as top contact allergens:

• Eucalyptus, lavender, ylang-ylang, other essential oils
• Flower extracts, chamomile
• Honey, propolis
• Lemon, citrus, other fruit extracts
• Mint, menthol, eucalyptus
• Tea tree oil

Note that many natural substances are proven contact allergens, enough so that a recent study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology states, “We emphasize the misconception of clean, natural, organic, and vegan to equal safe … Many naturally derived ingredients are the cause of dermatitis.” Opt for validated hypoallergenic and use your patch test results to guide you.

A notable exception is pure, single-sourced, first-cold-pressed virgin coconut oil (more on this below) which has several clinical studies showing its efficacy as a microbiome-safe, broad-spectrum antifungal, antibacterial, and antimicrobial. It is also a well known barrier-reparative anti-inflammatory.

What if I have dandruff or my scalp is flaking and itching?

• See a dermatologist to get properly diagnosed and to get a patch test.
• Regardless of diagnosis, allergen-free hair care is your friend. Any of our shampoos and conditioners are great options.
• Know-It-Oil is our clinically-published virgin coconut oil. Oil’s Well is the same oil with pure monolaurin added for more antimicrobial benefits, which can be particularly beneficial for very irritated scalps or scalp conditions caused by a microbial imbalance. Use as a hair conditioner or comb through scalp and leave on as an intensive, soothing treatment.
  • Combing Boo-Boo Balm through your scalp can also help further bring down inflammation, control itching, and lessen flaking.
• Use your patch test results to guide you when selecting helmets, scarves, wraps, and other clothing or accessories you might wear on your head. Wearing a non-stretchy, unbleached, uncolored, pure cotton cloth under headwear to lessen contact with allergens can also be helpful.
• Babies sometimes are born with or develop a “dandruff” called cradle cap. This is normal and resolves on its own eventually but if it is very thick, you could use diluted dandruff shampoo as well — but do consult your pediatrician because babies should not use certain actives. Know-It-Oil or Oil’s Well are great options for cradle cap because they are effective antifungals/antimicrobials that are safe for babies (monolaurin is naturally found in breast milk).

Subscribe to VMVinSKIN.com and our YouTube channel for more hypoallergenic tips and helpful “skinformation”!

If you have a history of sensitive skin…

…don’t guess! Random trial and error can cause more damage. Ask your dermatologist about a patch test.

To shop our selection of hypoallergenic products, visit vmvhypoallergenics.com. Need help? Ask us in the comments section below, or for more privacy (such as when asking us to customize recommendations for you based on your patch test results) contact us by email, or drop us a private message on Facebook.

For more:

• On the prevalence of skin allergies, see Skin Allergies Are More Common Than Ever. 
• For the difference between irritant and allergic reactions, see It’s Complicated: Allergic Versus Irritant Reaction.
• For the difference between food, skin, and other types of reactions: see Skin & Food Allergies Are Not The Same Thing. 
• On the differences between hypoallergenic, natural, and organic, check out Is Natural Hypoallergenic? and this video in our YouTube channel. 
• To learn about the VH-Rating System and hypoallergenicity: What Is The Validated Hypoallergenic Rating System?

Main References: 

Regularly published reports on the most common allergens by the North American Contact Dermatitis Group and European Surveillance System on Contact Allergies (based on over 28,000 patch test results, combined), plus other studies. Remember, we are all individuals — just because an ingredient is not on the most common allergen lists does not mean you cannot be sensitive to it, or that it will not become an allergen. These references, being based on so many patch test results, are a good basis but it is always best to get a patch test yourself.

1. Mukti, Ria Andriani, and Agus Ridwan Misbahuddin. “Determination of Effectiveness Traditional Cosmetics of Coconut Oil and Turmeric as Anti-Dandruff.” In 2nd International Conference on Social, Applied Science, and Technology in Home Economics (ICONHOMECS 2019). Atlantis Press, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.2991/assehr.k.200218.027.
2. Saxena R, Mittal P, et al. Longitudinal study of the scalp microbiome suggests coconut oil to enrich healthy scalp commensals. Sci Rep. 2021 Mar 31;11(1):7220. doi: 10.1038/s41598-021-86454-1. PMID: 33790324; PMCID: PMC8012655.
3. Urban K, Giesey R, et al. A Guide to Informed Skincare: The Meaning of Clean, Natural, Organic, Vegan, and Cruelty-Free. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022 Sep 1;21(9):1012-1013.
4. Houle M-C, DeKoven JG, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group Patch Test Results: 2021–2022. Dermatitis®. 2025;36(5):464-476. doi:10.1089/derm.2024.0474.
5. DeKoven JG, Warshaw EM, Reeder MJ, Atwater AR, Silverberg JI, Belsito DV, Sasseville D, Zug KA, Taylor JS, Pratt MD, Maibach HI, Fowler JF Jr, Adler BL, Houle MC, Mowad CM, Botto N, Yu J, Dunnick CA. North American Contact Dermatitis Group Patch Test Results: 2019-2020. Dermatitis. 2023 Mar-Apr;34(2):90-104. doi: 10.1089/derm.2022.29017.jdk. Epub 2023 Jan 19. PMID: 36917520.
6. Uter W, Wilkinson SM, Aerts O, Bauer A, Borrego L, Brans R, Buhl T, Dickel H, Dugonik A, Filon FL, Garcìa PM, Giménez-Arnau A, Patruno C, Pesonen M, Pónyai G, Rustemeyer T, Schubert S, Schuttelaar MA, Simon D, Stingeni L, Valiukevičienė S, Weisshaar E, Werfel T, Gonçalo M; ESSCA and EBS ESCD working groups, and the GEIDAC. Patch test results with the European baseline series, 2019/20-Joint European results of the ESSCA and the EBS working groups of the ESCD, and the GEIDAC. Contact Dermatitis. 2022 Oct;87(4):343-355. doi: 10.1111/cod.14170. Epub 2022 Jun 24. PMID: 35678309. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35678309/
7. DeKoven JG, Silverberg JI, Warshaw EM, Atwater AR, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group Patch Test Results: 2017-2018. Dermatitis. 2021 Mar-Apr 01;32(2):111-123.
8. DeKoven JG, Warshaw EM, Zug KA, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group Patch Test Results: 2015-2016. Dermatitis. 2018 Nov/Dec;29(6):297-309.
9. DeKoven JG, Warshaw EM, Belsito DV, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group Patch Test Results 2013-2014. Dermatitis. 2017 Jan/Feb;28(1):33-46.
10. Warshaw, E.M., Maibach, H.I., Taylor, J.S., et al. North American contact dermatitis group patch test results: 2011-2012. Dermatitis. 2015; 26: 49-59.
11. W Uter et al. The European Baseline Series in 10 European Countries, 2005/2006–Results of the European Surveillance System on Contact Allergies (ESSCA). Contact Dermatitis 61 (1), 31-38.7 2009.
12. Wetter, DA et al. Results of patch testing to personal care product allergens in a standard series and a supplemental cosmetic series: An analysis of 945 patients from the Mayo Clinic Contact Dermatitis Group, 2000-2007. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2010 Nov;63(5):789-98.
13. Warshaw EM, Buonomo M, DeKoven JG, et al. Importance of Supplemental Patch Testing Beyond a Screening Series for Patients With Dermatitis: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience. JAMA Dermatol. 2021 Dec 1;157(12):1456-1465.
14. Verallo-Rowell VM. The validated hypoallergenic cosmetics rating system: its 30-year evolution and effect on the prevalence of cosmetic reactions. Dermatitis 2011 Apr; 22(2):80-97.
15. Ruby Pawankar et al. World Health Organization. White Book on Allergy 2011-2012 Executive Summary.
16. Misery L et al. Sensitive skin in the American population: prevalence, clinical data, and role of the dermatologist. Int J Dermatol. 2011 Aug;50(8):961-7.
17. Warshaw EM1, Maibach HI, Taylor JS, Sasseville D, DeKoven JG, Zirwas MJ, Fransway AF, Mathias CG, Zug KA, DeLeo VA, Fowler JF Jr, Marks JG, Pratt MD, Storrs FJ, Belsito DV. North American contact dermatitis group patch test results: 2011-2012.Dermatitis. 2015 Jan-Feb;26(1):49-59.
18. Warshaw, E et al. Allergic patch test reactions associated with cosmetics: Retrospective analysis of cross-sectional data from the North American Contact Dermatitis Group, 2001-2004. J AmAcadDermatol 2009;60:23-38.
19. Marks JG, Belsito DV, DeLeo VA, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group patch-test results, 1998 to 2000. Am J Contact Dermat. 2003;14(2):59-62.
20. Warshaw EM, Belsito DV, Taylor JS, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group patch test results: 2009 to 2010. Dermatitis. 2013;24(2):50-99.
21. Verallo-Rowell V. M, Katalbas S.S. & Pangasinan J. P. Natural (Mineral, Vegetable, Coconut, Essential) Oils and Contact Dermatitis. Curr Allergy Asthma Rep 16,51 (2016) . https://doi.org/10.1007/s11882-016-0630-9.
22. de Groot AC. Monographs in Contact Allergy, Volume II – Fragrances and Essential Oils. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group; 2019.
23. De Groot AC. Monographs in Contact Allergy Volume I. Non-Fragrance Allergens in Cosmetics (Part I and Part 2). Boca Raton, Fl, USA: CRC Press Taylor and Francis Group, 2018.
24. Zhu TH, Suresh R, Warshaw E, et al. The Medical Necessity of Comprehensive Patch Testing. Dermatitis. 2018 May/Jun;29(3):107-111.

Want more great information on contact dermatitis? Check out the American Contact Dermatitis Society, Dermnet New Zealand, the Contact Dermatitis Institute, and your country’s contact dermatitis association.

Laura is our “dew”-good CEO at VMV Hypoallergenics and eldest daughter of VMV’s founding dermatologist-dermatopathologist. She has two children, Madison and Gavin, and works at VMV with her family and VMV’s signature “skinfatuated, skintellectual, skingenious” team. In addition to saving the world’s skin, Laura is passionate about health, cultural theory, human rights, happiness, and spreading goodness (like a VMV cream)!